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- After-market push button 12v 60amp ignition switch on motorcycle connected w/copper wire, turns over too slow?
Ok, I am selling my 82' Honda CM450 Custom and I am putting an after-market push button ignition switch on. It is not made specifically for the bike. I have a 12 volt 60 amp "momentary on push button." I have the wires going directly from the switch to the ignition coil. I am using 14 gauge copper wire and each wire is about 3 feet long. When i hit the button it turns over but turns over really slow (not enough to start the bike). I thought I had a bad battery so I connected a battery charger to the battery. When I connect the positive and negative terminals on the coil by using a wrench or something metal, it turns over like it should and the bike starts. So here is what I have again: 2 copper 14 gauge wires going from the two terminals on the 12V 60 Amp "Momentary On Push Button" switch directly to the positive and negative terminals on the ignition coil. When I push the button, the bike turns over slow. I have also noticed the wire gets pretty warm. Do I need a different switch or different wire?

A Your description sucks. It says you put a switch across the ignition coil, creating a dead short. What I think you mean: you have substituted 6 feet of 14 ga. wire and a 60 amp rated switch for the starter solenoid. In other words, you got a marginal switch and a big resistor in place of a set of relay contacts. What you need to understand and fix it yourself: a manual (approx. $15 - 30). If the starter relay (aka solenoid) is faulty and you don't want the expense of a stock part... go to the local hardware store and get a starter relay for a garden tractor. About 15 bucks.

- My motorcycle will not start all the time, what is wrong?
I have a 1980 Honda CX500 Custom and it will not start all of the time. I turn on the kill switch, bike is in neutral, key turned on, but when I press the ignition button it will crank for half a second, then will just click, then crank for a second again. Sometimes if I push the ignition over and over a few times the engine will fire and start and run fine. Also my headlight has started not turning on, though it flickers occasionally as it cranks. As far as I can tell the battery is charged (I have a trickle charger). What else could be wrong? Had battery tested and it is fine and now completely charged and holding. Starter looks fine (brushes aren't too worn). Haven't looked at the ignition switch yet as the screws are far too tight.

A sounds to me like an old hadlebar switch.hi lo or starter button its about time for them to go.could be battery just load test it,and if the starter is old the brushes inside could be worn,and have a dirty brush connection thats why perhaps when to turn the motor it wants to crank.if someone has been in that motor and put high compression pistons in it with a weak batt it would be hard to crank or a big cam would. but i doubt thats the case.