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- can having having the brake fluid reservoir sitting unlevel on a motorcycle effect how your brakes preform?
I have custom handle bars on my motorcycle and the brakes aren't decompressing properly, I suspect its because the fluid Reservoir sits at an angle instead of level like it was designed

A So long as there is the correct amount of fluid in the reservoir, then it should not matter; maybe the brakes need to be bled ??

- what type of bolt is the strongest? BEST ANSWER GETS 10 PTS !!!?
i have a custom motorcycle and it has 2 bolts to hold the handle bars in place, what type of bolt should i use because they keep breaking. thanks

A L-9 Lamalloy is strongest hardware available "off the shelf" It's Next Level above SAE Grade 8. About the same incremental increase as from Grade 5 to 8 ISO Metric 8.8 is approx equiv of SAE Grade 8 SAE "8.8" specs are LOWER than SAE Grade 8. It's approx equiv of SAE Grade 5,,or ISO 6.8 10.9 & 12.9 are the hi Strength ISO Grades,,,beyond SAE Grade 8 I DOUBT you'd find a Usable Size,, but ARP's 100 Series Rod Bolts are near twice as strong as SAE Grade 8 ............................................... All the above is almost a Moot Point. I have doubts that simply a Higher Grade Bolt will give you a Solid Solution. Unless you just happened to have some Really Cheesey "Hardware Store" Bolts,,, Or they were Old,, Or they'd been Overtorqued............ If You're breaking DECENT bolts in good condition,,,a STRONGER Bolt is NOT necessarilly going to solve your problem. Based on mention of "Custom" and "2 Bolts",, I'm Assuming You're talking about the Riser Mounting Bolts,,,,,and not the Bar Clamp Bolts. You Should use the highest grade hardware you can reasonably get ahold of. But ONLY for reasons of Durability and "Good Construction Practices". NOT,,,N-O-T as a Patch to cover-up an underlying condition. The Root Cause of the breakage needs to be determined and addressed. When everything is "Normal",,,let alone GOOD,,, "Medium Grade" hardware is More than Adequate and has a decent safety factor. The Difference between Medium Strength and HI Strength is NOT THAT MUCH,,,,and that can be Tricky. If the CAUSE of the Breakage remains in effect,,, And High Strength Hardware SEEMS to "solve it".. That's Very Possibly a "Russian Roulette" trap. The Extra Strength makes the Bolt BETTER at doing it's intended Job,,,and raises safety factor. But it too may ALSO be left dealing with SAME THREAT that broke the Weaker ones. Very Difficult to EVALUATE the Degree of the Problem "under the ol' shade tree" where we All do our best work:) Result is,,,we Cannot Likely determine WHEN the High Strength Bolt will fail due to Same Problem that crashed the Old Bolts. All we've Increased is a fairly SMALL amount of MATERIAL Strength. Silly Example,,,but it's Sorta like Double Bagging Groceries. Except the Difference between Grade 3>5>8 is Not even a "Double Bag" Difference. If the "bottom is falling outa the bag at the checkout counter",,,,,,,,That's NOT so bad. That's just a SIGN it's not up to the Job. But,, NOWHERE NEAR as BAD as "Double Bagging it",,,,,,,just to get half-way across the parking lot before Bottom falls out. Only if the Old Bolts were Clearly "the problem" due to damage or very low grade,,can Hi Grade bolts be considered a reliable solution. Otherwise,,,even the BEST Bolts can only be reliably considered a "Partial-Solution" ..................................... If there's Enough Material Thickness in the Riser,, going up to largest SIZE Bolt it will accomodate is a Much Better Solution. Another substantial help is to Install them at Half-Torque. NORMALLY,,,an Under-torqued fastener is Very Bad. Bar Risers attatchment is an unusual Connection that has Loads upon them Beyond what Mere Clamping Force adresses. It's More of a Cross-Pin type connection. Less Torque REDUCES Bolt's Pre-Stretch,,,as bars are pushed/pulled they then can have that "Extra Stretch " available before exceeding the fasteners' elasticity. Especially on very SHORT shanked bolts which dont have much mass to distribute the load thru. Low Torqued Bolts Need some kind of auxilliary retention. Star Lock Washer,,,or fold over lock tab,,safety wire,,or "gskt sealer" on the threads/hole. Locktite type products,,,,not too wise on "bolt breaking problem" . Extracting broken bolts is work enough without having to deal with hard-locked threads. Better ways to achieve Anti-loosening in certain apps ,than Locktite. Sharp,Square Edges of the Bolt Holes doesn't help bolt-breaking probs. A Shallow 45* Chamfer on the Holes,,including any Threaded Holes reduces chaffing on the bolt shank,,,but also eliminates a Fulcrum Point . It's a SMALL effect,,,but the difference is Bending the Bolt across a Sharp,Square Corner,,,versus across a Radius. Even a Small thickness of rubber mounting reduces loading on the bolt. It requires very hard rubber,and a travel restriction so the bars dont get "floppy". Longer-Shanked bolts help. But ya gotta deal with appearance issues of spacers. Generally,,, simply a BIGGER Bolt Diameter is best overall solution. Then,,,any extra strength of Hi Grade hardware Really pays it's best dividends. The extra Mass of Larger Bolt typically handles the original excess loads "good enough",,,or a big majority of it. Leaving the advantages of High Grade's extra Strength to go mostly to "safety factor". A Cheap,Low Grade 3/8" or 7/16" bolt pretty much blows away the "best 1/4 or 5/16" bolt that money can buy". Particularly in terms of rigidity and strength against "side loading" /bending forces.. Also possible is that a particular Riser is simply NOT up to the job, Bolt may be too small,,,and riser not large enough to allow larger bolts. Example>DRAG BARS may be Rock Solid in a particular Riser,,,while APE'S increased Leverage simply overwhelms it. Take a look at that possibility. Whatever ya Do,,,make certain it's a SOLID fix. And not one which just gets you further down the road before failure recurrs. Good Luck,,,hope you get it sorted out.