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- What type of charger does a vintage harley davidson buddy l powerwheels use?
What type of charger does a vintage harley davidson buddy l powerwheels use.(it has a 6 volt battery in it) I purchased this on ebay without a charger HELP!!!!!! Thank you in advance John

A 6 volt battery takes 6 volt charger. 12 volt batterys take 12 volt chargers. Make sure u get the charger that is made by the same company as the product. For example, if the harley davidson is a power wheels, then use a power wheel charger.

- Where can I get a diagram of a 1995 Harley Davidson Heritage Softail charger system for free?
Well, the battery won't charge and I'm trying to get a diagram of the charger system preferably from the owners manual so I can look where the alternator is and possibly replace it. I'm looking for possibly a PDF of this from the manual or anything, Thanks in advance! I've been trying all over google for 45 minutes with no avail.

A I'm going to answer this and I'll try not to sound like a total jerk, although that may be difficult for me. The wiring diagram is in the back of the service manual, and if you're going to start replacing items like an alternator, then you MUST have a service manual to repair it correctly. First, you need to verify that the alternator is the problem. You will spend a fortune in cash and hours of time installing parts that don't fix the problem (and can't be returned to the dealer or anybody else) unless you verify the source of the problem. A charging system test begins with a fully charged battery. I'm assuming that you have a volt-ohm meter to do electrical testing with, otherwise I'm just wasting my time with your question. Verify that your battery is holding at 12.6 volts DC with the key off, if it's anything less then you need to charge the battery before testing the charging system. I do not recommend using an automotive style charger, but if you do not have a motorcycle battery charger then use a car charger, just set it on the lowest setting and don't leave it more than an hour or two. I would also recommend having it load tested at your local auto parts store, they'll check it for free if you don't have a load tester. The battery connections should be clean and torqued to spec. Many charging problems can be traced to faulty connections. If the battery is fully charged, check the battery voltage with the engine running. It should be higher than the reading you got with the key off, for example, I would expect a properly operating charging system to read 13-14 VDC at idle to 3000 RPM, but never more than 15 VDC. If the reading is more than 15 VDC, then you have a faulty regulator. If the reading is the same as key off, or less, then you've got a charging system problem. If the reading is more than key off, like 13 volts or more, then the problem is the battery not the charging system. I start by checking the output of the stator at the three yellow wires coming out of the engine. This measurement is AC volts, you can check it by disconnecting the connector and run the engine while connecting your test leads to two of the three wires. This will give you the output for one leg of the stator, you'll need to check the output of the other two legs and verify that the output doesn't vary more than 10% between measurements. Imagine that the three yellow wires are numbered A, B, and C. The first test is between wires A and B, the second test is between wires B and C, the third test is between wires A and C. The measurements should be about 35-52 VAC at 2000 RPM, or 19-26 VAC for every 1000 RPM. If your readings are too low, then check continuity of the stator with the key off, using your meter to check ohms of resistance. It's the same locations as before, A-B, B-C, A-C, and there should be continuity between each of these wires. Less than one ohm is preferable, 10 ohms indicates a problem, more than 10 ohms is a faulty stator. I would also check continuity to ground, i.e. connect the positive test lead to one of the three yellow wires and the negative test lead to the battery, verify that you do NOT have continuity to ground. Your meter should read OL or OFL on a digital meter, or hundreds of K Ohms on a old school meter. Check all three wires to verify NO continuity to ground. Any continuity to ground indicates a bad stator that must be replaced. That's how you tell if the alternator is good or bad. A brand new service manual is about $60 at a dealership, less than half that on Ebay, and free from your local library. I've checked all the websites that have free manuals for download, and none of them carry your particular bike. Email me if you have specific questions or need additional details.